Mind you, fashion hasn’t turned formal and stuffy. It’s just the opposite. There remains a love for the avant-garde, for the esoteric and the confounding. Fashion has simply pulled back from baroque gestures and conspicuous awkwardness. There were fewer elaborately painted faces, as well as fewer morning-after ones. The industry is making a pitch for barefaced normalcy.
The clothes were not grand. Models did not appear in floor-sweeping gowns fit for a royal court. Instead, they wore garments that were quite simply stylish, engaging — and effortful. That didn’t mean they were contrived; they were not. But they were the kind of clothes that show one cares about how one looks, cares about the setting, cares about the occasion. These clothes require care.
This isn’t street style, marked by athletic references and nomadic sensibility. For example, Ghesquière did not produce some glorified version of easy. But these clothes were nonetheless made for urban streets. They’d improve the landscape of downtowns and midtowns.
Céline at Paris Fashion Week 2017
The collage above shows my four favourite looks from the Céline 2017 Ready-To-Wear défilé as shown during Paris Fashion Week. I am a fan of the simplicity of both third and fourth look – the loose, languid shapes elongate the body and simultaneously embody a hint of the feminine (the loosely knotted satin scarf around the neck, the playful neckline on the sleeveless top, the drape of the coat). I admire that effortless and playful aesthetic vision of Phoebe Philo, yet I also always look forward to any new direction she is taking. One thing is certain; Philo knows time after time how to bemuse and inspire the modern, working woman – and shows that it is, in fact, possible to aim of comfort in high fashion while staying true to an elegant look.
These four looks will be added to my personal inspiration board for upcoming spring. See the whole Céline RTW 2017 collection here.
Shop the Céline look: